Heating And Air Conditioning Installers – Whether summers are getting hotter or we’ve lost heat tolerance as we get older, many of us are tempted to ditch the noisy, dripping window air conditioner and replace it with a quiet, efficient central air conditioning system. .
But we will not take this idea further. Those of you with forced air ducts are concerned that retrofitting the heating system is expensive and inefficient. And if you don’t have a channel, you can’t imagine how it will be added without destroying the house and the price of the bundle. But adding central air is easier and cheaper than you think.
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When combined with an existing forced air heating system, central air for a 2,000-square-foot home costs $3,500 to $4,000 and can be done in two to three days by two technicians, usually with little or no alterations.
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For homes that require plumbing, the cost and labor time is doubled. But experienced plumbing contractors can cleverly hide water pipes behind walls, behind closets, and in attic walls and ceilings with minimal effort and minimal mess.
The first order of business – and the most important decision when installing central air conditioning in your home – is choosing the right equipment.
All air conditioning contractors should start evaluating your home by performing the American Air Conditioning Contractor’s Manual J Air Conditioning Load Calculation. This ensures an increase in temperature in your home. The calculation is very easy to do and will show the unit size you need. If you are thinking of deciding on the right unit for your home based on experience alone, turn to another contractor. Although largely influenced by where you live, many factors influence the size unit needed, including the amount of wall and attic insulation you have; Type and placement of windows and doors; and orientation of your house in the sun. An estimate can alert you to the potential benefits of improving the insulation in your home. By making your home more energy efficient, you may be able to reduce the amount of air conditioner you need.
Take this step when deciding how big a central air unit you need for the size of your home.
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Using heat gain calculations, your contractor will recommend the size of the air conditioner, expressed in tons per hour or Btu (Btu/h). One ton is equal to 12,000 Btu per hour. Why is it important to get the right unit size?
A small unit will not be able to fully cool the room on a hot day and will cost more to run because it will have to run longer than a good unit. Larger compressors cost more to operate because they require more electricity to run larger units. And large units don’t reduce humidity effectively. This is because it cools the air too quickly and closes before it has a chance to circulate the right amount of air past the coils to remove the necessary humidity. The result is that the room does not seem as cold as the temperature indicates. In fact, the room can feel damp and humid.
After deciding on the size of the unit, your contractor should talk to you about efficiency, which is indicated by the Annual Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER). SEER rates how many Btu’s an air conditioner produces per watt of electricity. The higher the SEER, the lower the operating costs.
Federal law requires new A/C units to have a SEER of at least 13. These units have low maintenance costs, high quality, high safety features, good sound insulation and low power requirements. Generally, the higher the SEER, the higher the initial cost per unit.
Packaged Vs Split System
Next, you need to decide which system to buy. There are two types. The “package system” combines the condenser, which cools the refrigerator and removes the hot air, and the fan and coil system that cools and blows the air. Pipes connect directly to the unit. It is basically a large wall air conditioner with ducts. But package deals are rare.
With the “split system”, the condenser is outside the house and the fan and coil system is inside; They are connected by pipes that carry the coolant. If you have a forced air furnace, the cooling pipe is connected to the cooling system connected to the furnace air handler.
Sometimes it fits into an existing plenum. If that is not possible due to space limitations, the contractor will fabricate a separate steel plenum. If you don’t have forced air, a fan and coil system is usually installed in the attic, where it sends cool air through ducts. A 20- to 30-foot pipe that carries the coolant can be hidden as an underfloor drain.
Even silent condensers make noise, so work with your contractor to locate them away from a bedroom or home office window. Do not place the condenser under a desk or completely surround it as it will draw hot air from above. Any restriction of air flow will reduce the efficiency of the unit. However, you can hide the condenser in the landscape, as long as the air circulates freely through it.
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Most central air conditioners are split systems: the condenser is outside and the fan and coil system is inside, connected to the condenser by pipes that go outside the house. Pipes can be concealed as part of the plumbing system and downspout. Second floor pipe service with ceiling register. A pipe leading out of the cupboard on the way to the first floor bedroom.
You should check your channel. Adjustments are often required to accommodate the high air volume produced by air conditioners. Ironically, older duct systems often work better with central air conditioning. (As the heating industry learned more about air flow and furnace sizing and distribution systems, ducts became smaller.)
Because the fan and coil units are installed in the attic in many retrofit ventilation systems, finding supply and return efforts to ceiling registers in basements and second floors is a challenge.
Pipes feeding second floor rooms are usually above the attic floor and run between the attic floor joints, where they connect to the ceiling register. First floor supply pipes run into second floor closets where possible.
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The first step your contractor will take to determine the location of the plumbing is to draw a second floor plan and place it on top of the first floor plan. Frank Scarangello of Staten Island, New York-based Scaron Heating and Air Conditioning says: “In 99 percent of homes, the second-floor closet provides access to the first-floor ceiling register space.”
Plumbing in closets takes up less space than you might think. Since many pipes are 12 × 6 inches or 10 × 8 inches, even a small 2 × 4 foot closet, it only takes 4 available 64 cubic feet. Some refrigeration contractors may recommend using “soft pipes” (smaller, less expensive flexible pipes) instead of rigid square pipes. But avoid flex ducts in active closet areas – they don’t hold up well to wear and tear and puncture easily.
What kind of dirt can you expect if you have to install a pipe? In most cases, the surface of the wall and ceiling are not treated. Holes will need to be cut in the first and second floor ceilings for the registers, and some second floor closets will have to be operated for new plumbing work. But these holes are very small, and can easily handle dirt.
Even if your home is ductless, if air conditioning will make your home comfortable in the summer, contact an HVAC contractor to check the cost of adding A/C and what methods they use. Choosing the right technology and equipment will keep you comfortable for years, and it’s often cheaper and less disruptive than you might think.
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