Is My Art Worth Anything – This guide will help you get started in determining what your painting is worth, and will give you the language you need to sell if you have something really valuable.
Search the internet and you will find thousands of people’s “authentic” paintings by Picasso or Dali. You will also find thousands of people who have evaluated these products online and find that they are simply the latest (I did this when I was a French artist years ago and I lost my money, then I am ashamed in front of my grandfather, a. decumane of art … and the reason for this post. This it is). So let’s start with the absolute basics, is your picture true?
Is My Art Worth Anything
This question may seem silly, but there are master craftsmen who have perfected the art of imitating paintings and putting them into mass production, so much so that it is worth debating at some point whether it is a painting or a print.
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The first thing you need to do is look at the picture.. I’m not talking about a few meters, I’m talking about your face against the picture, how the art is applied to the canvas or wood. . . A jeweler’s lens or ring is useful here if you are looking for a piece of art for sale but is not absolutely necessary. You do this crazy act by looking for small tell-tale signs like pencils, mixed colors, lines and dots.
Brush strokes: You can see the brush strokes at first glance, but can you identify the real picture in the images below?
Also the picture on the left. The one on the right is an old fake to look like pictured with bristles! This is a good example of things to observe. Another well-done example is below. Notice how you can see the brush texture from afar, but up close they turn out to be fake.
If your picture has artificial waves, like the work on the right, it is not a picture. There is a lot of word of mouth that you can “feel” brush off. People help with this and make texture patterns like the ones above. They are incredibly common (another way would be to read the picture stretched to the edge of the “table”. The printed image above has a well-defined line at the edge of the picture where it meets the canvas. . the pictures are never perfectly straight at the edge!). The texture itself can be seen in the image below in the thick bristles.
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No one needs it? Watercolor or print? – Well, I took your picture strictly and there are no noticeable textures and brushes. Probably several things – watercolor, drawing, original “image” (sculpture, lithography or screen printing, etc.) or printing. Since we’re dealing with maps today, we won’t go into the details of the differences above the original “pros”, but they can still be valuable (don’t worry, wait for the post about the tracks!).
Watercolors and illustrations don’t have a lot of texture due to the nature of the medium (eg paint or pencil), but you can look at a few to determine if it reads. First, look along the hem line – does the color run slightly across the canvas? Is there a noticeable fading in the “thickness” or density of the paint? or does the color suddenly cease? Take a look below to see what I mean.
Again, the magnification helps here, but you can clearly see how the color flows and the thickness changes in the watercolor above to the trace, where it stops abruptly. They are similar to drawings, although much smaller (see drawing a brush below).
Prints: If you don’t see a handout application certificate, you’re probably looking at some kind of printout. That’s not always a bad thing! Some prints or sculptures can be incredibly expensive! But you no longer need to work with a particular particle.
Debrabdesign, Schmrypto, And Da D’art Drops
Several traces of the original designs are useful – look for uniform colors without brush marks, thick paper that slides clearly, high-quality paper cut on prominent edges, or something that looks incredibly similar to a stamp. . If you see any of these, your work is not a painting or drawing, but it is worth further investigation. See some examples below.
If your work contains small blemishes or appears to have been printed by a newer printer or magazine, it is likely not worth more than its design value. Many modern printers will have a bunch of small dots indicating that they have been printed. Others will be on a uniform and thin paper, like mass produced, as in the example below.
Therefore, deciding whether your work is a painting is a process of inspection, validation and screening. If there are pencils, flowing paint, and signs moved by the middle of the hand, you probably have a good painting. If you have a fake texture, a solid block of colors printed on it, or your work is made up of small dots, you’re looking at some type of print, not a painting.
If you’ve been to an estate sale or garage sale, you’ve probably seen people do this before – they take a piece of art and quickly turn it over (upside down) – trying to set it up quickly. the age and authenticity of the piece of art.
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By looking at the back of a painting you can quickly tell if the painting is old, based on the style of the board and the canvas. If the canvas is bright and not old, it is modern. If he has a certain color and uses it, he is older.
Modern paintings can still be expensive, but if you look at a picture of a Victorian girl in a shiny white sheet, it’s obvious that it’s a portrait.
Looking at it also allows you to see the frame (the wood on which the canvas is mounted), which can provide a picture, know whether your work is on the wall or wood (or wood), and in this way in the best way. to check the canvas holes or see instead of looking from the front. It can also give you the history of the item (usually behind the origin of the high-end object) or give you nothing at all, because it was recently manufactured and covered with paper.
If your work is composed and the back is covered with paper, if you think it’s a valuable piece, and the front doesn’t give you the information you need, it’s a good idea to remove the picture when you get home to see it. (You might even get lucky and find the original Declaration of Independence hidden away!)
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Looking is also a good way to find a signature or title if it is not on the front. The signature is the most valuable aspect of the identification process.
He is an artist who adds value to almost any situation. Therefore, determining the name of the artist is where he should spend most of his time.
Usually pictures are signed in one of the corners (usually the bottom corner), but this can also be signed on the back of the picture or something inside the picture (for example, a book or a letter, especially common before 1900). How do you say it’s okay to remove a paper from a supporting document in a search? Make sure you don’t accidentally remove important data. Read all the stickers and notes on the chart.
If your image is not signed, it needs to be an excellent or written source of some value. Often, if a painting is not signed, it is “attributed” to the artist. But still, this is not always expensive, and the picture must be of the highest quality or time value. For example, I have an unfinished old master pictured below. Unsigned, not as valuable as it could be, but it is early (1600s-170s) and probably French, so it still has a reasonable value.
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Most of the related art signatures are not 100% clear. You will rarely find the name written in a literary text. But usually from a certain point.
There are a few tricks to determining the name of an illegible signature. The first thing is to do a simple Google search for the name and “artist” as you can see. If the artist is famous, the results are likely to be similar. The next step, as you can see, is to try variations of the name.
If called normally
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